Bright colours, bold patterns and carefully staged photographs immediately catch the eye in Between a Fold and a Memory, Karima Al Shomely's solo exhibition at Leila Heller Gallery.

EMIRARTS Exclusive Interview — Instagram

But look beyond the vibrant compositions, and a deeper story emerges. One about Emirati women, the traditions they carry and the ways cultural identity evolves from one generation to the next.

For Al Shomely, whose artistic practice combines photography, sculpture, textiles and video, heritage is not something frozen in the past. It is something living, capable of taking on new forms and meanings.

Traditional Fabrics, Reimagined

One of the most striking aspects of the exhibition is the use of traditional Emirati textile patterns.

These colourful motifs, once associated with everyday clothing, appear throughout her photographs and sculptures. By enlarging them, changing their materials and placing them in unexpected settings, Al Shomely transforms familiar fabrics into contemporary artworks.

During our interview, the artist explained how she wanted to take traditional textile prints and present them in a new way, creating a visual language that speaks to younger generations while remaining deeply connected to Emirati heritage.

The result is a fascinating contrast between tradition and modernity, where familiar patterns become bold artistic statements.

The Burqa: A Symbol of Identity, Not Disappearance

One particular photograph led to an interesting exchange during our conversation.

Looking at the figure, partially concealed by clothing and traditional elements, we asked whether the woman was disappearing.

Al Shomely's answer was clear: she was not disappearing.

The Emirati burqa, a traditional face covering worn by women, is a recurring element in the artist's practice. Rather than representing absence, it becomes a powerful symbol of presence, identity and continuity.

The figure remains visible through her clothing, her gestures and the cultural symbols surrounding her.

In the artist's words, she is still here, asserting her place in the present.

It is a particularly compelling way of challenging how traditional clothing is perceived, showing that cultural heritage and contemporary identity are not opposites.

Preserving the Past Without Living in It

Throughout Between a Fold and a Memory, Al Shomely moves between generations.

Traditional patterns become sculptures. Familiar garments take on new meanings through photography. Everyday objects connect memories of the past with contemporary Emirati life.

Her work raises a question: how can a society embrace change without losing the cultural references that shape its identity?

Rather than treating tradition as something to preserve unchanged, Al Shomely presents it as something that continues to evolve.

At the heart of this exploration is a tribute to Emirati women, whose stories, skills and cultural knowledge have been passed down through generations.

Exhibition: Between a Fold and a Memory
Artist: Karima Al Shomely
Venue: Leila Heller Gallery, Alserkal Avenue, Dubai
Dates: 23 September – 10 November 2026
Admission: Free

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